General Training Regime

General Training Plan

The outlined training program is a summary of the self assessment and goals info, but does not cover the specifics used to achieve my goals, however it is the basis for the specific training programs outlined in other pages.  So what do I need to do...

Unless I want to only climb specific styles of hard routes or boulder problems, I need to improve my all around climbing ability.  My weaknesses will dictate what I focus attention on the most while my strengths will determine what I should avoid.  Quite an easy concept, but difficult to practice because like most people I enjoy climbs focusing on my strengths rather than my weaknesses. 

Basically, it looks like I need to focus on climbing a lot of routes that will require a personal awareness of body position, improved footwork including smearing, and a focus on climbing movement, but avoid focusing on powerful routes that have slopers or substantial sized holds.  I also need to focus on mental training in general, some of which will come from climbing the variety of routes to improve technique, and some mental training completely separate from climbing.  This seems like it will be the most fruitful path to take, though improvements will be seen by training to increase hand anaerobic endurance and shoulder strength.  Furthermore since my finger strength/weight ratio is not balanced with my large muscle group strength/weight ratio, I am going to work to improve my finger strength/weight ratio, even if it is at the expense of my large muscle group strength/weight ratio.  This will involve a combination of increasing overall finger strength and losing body mass, including large muscle mass.  Also, I should not focus on large muscle group strength building exercises such as pull-ups, lock-off exercises, and campusing, only shoulder specific exercises. 

On a side note, I’ll do the exercises to lead to a front lever, planche, and a hand-stand press for personal fulfillment.

There Is No Someday